Updated 21 October 2026. Season dates are from STF Aurora Sky Station, ICEHOTEL and Kiruna Lapland.
Short answer: Pick Abisko for the best chance of clear skies and a quiet base in a national park, with the Aurora Sky Station open evenings from 19 October 2026 to 27 March 2027. Pick Kiruna for the airport, more hotels and activities like the Icehotel, which opens on 11 December 2026. Many travelers combine both: they’re about an hour apart by train.
Seeing the northern lights is high on a lot of family bucket lists, ours included. Swedish Lapland is one of the most accessible places in Europe to try, and the two names you’ll see everywhere are Abisko and Kiruna. They’re close to each other but very different as places to stay. This is my research-based comparison, with the season dates for 2026/27.
Abisko
village in a national park by Lake Torneträsk
Kiruna
Sweden’s northernmost town, with an airport
Distance
about an hour apart by train
Aurora Sky Station nights
19 Oct 2026 – 27 Mar 2027
ICEHOTEL 37 opens
11 December 2026
Polar night in Kiruna
11 Dec 2026 – 1 Jan 2027
The short version
| Feature | Abisko | Kiruna |
|---|---|---|
| What it is | Small village in a national park | Mining town and regional hub |
| Clear skies | Known for them (rain shadow) | Good, but more variable |
| Light pollution | Very little | More around town, dark outside it |
| Getting there | Night train, or train/transfer from Kiruna | Direct flights from Stockholm; night train |
| Activities | Aurora Sky Station, hiking, snowshoeing | Icehotel, dog sledding, snowmobiles, tours |
| Places to stay | Few, book early | Many more options |
| Best for | Maximizing aurora chances | Variety and short trips |
Abisko: the clear-sky choice
Abisko sits on the shore of Lake Torneträsk inside Abisko National Park. Its reputation comes from the weather. Abisko lies in a rain shadow: moist air from the Atlantic rises over the mountains to the west, drops its rain and snow there, and arrives drier and clearer on the Abisko side. Sweden’s weather service SMHI explains the rain-shadow effect, and it’s the reason Abisko often has a patch of clear sky when the region around it is cloudy.
The Aurora Sky Station
The STF Aurora Sky Station sits on the mountain above the village and is reached by chairlift. Its Northern Lights Night runs from 19 October 2026 to 27 March 2027, from 20:30 until no later than 01:00. It includes a guide, the chairlift round trip and warm clothing and shoes. There are only 40 places per night, so STF recommends booking ahead, though drop-in is possible if there’s space.
Two honest caveats from STF itself: no one can guarantee the northern lights, and bookings become binding under the cancellation policy. Plan at least three nights if seeing the aurora is the main goal.
Staying in Abisko
STF Abisko Turiststation has hotel rooms, a hostel, cabins and two restaurants. There isn’t much else, which is part of the charm, but it means rooms go fast for the darkest months. Book as early as you can.
Kiruna: the convenient choice
Kiruna is the main town of Swedish Lapland and has its own airport with flights from Stockholm, which makes it the easiest place to reach on a short trip. It’s also the base for the biggest choice of winter activities.
The Icehotel
The ICEHOTEL in Jukkasjärvi, close to Kiruna, is rebuilt from river ice every winter with new art suites. ICEHOTEL 37 opens on Friday 11 December 2026, with an opening ceremony at 18:00. Kiruna Lapland describes this year’s suites as including an icy pool in “The Cold Descent” and penguins sculpted from ice in “The Emperors Suite.” You can stay a night in the ice or visit during the day.
Polar night
From 11 December 2026 to 1 January 2027, the sun doesn’t rise above the horizon in Kiruna, according to Kiruna Lapland. It isn’t pitch black all day. You get a few hours of blue twilight around midday. For aurora hunters, it means very long nights. For kids, it can be strange, so plan bright indoor time too.
Getting there
By night train
SJ runs the night train from Stockholm north to Kiruna, Abisko and Narvik. It’s a long ride, about 17 hours to Abisko, but you go to sleep in Stockholm and wake up in the Arctic. Swedish media reported that until 12 December 2026, passengers change at Boden early in the morning, and from the timetable change on 13 December, sleeper cars run through without the change. Check sj.se for your date. 🚂
By plane
Flights from Stockholm to Kiruna take you north in a couple of hours. From Kiruna, the train to Abisko takes about an hour.
Combining the two
A lot of travelers fly into Kiruna, spend a night or two there for the Icehotel and activities, then take the train to Abisko for the clearest skies. It also gives you two different chances at good weather.
When to go
The aurora season in Lapland runs through the dark months, and the Aurora Sky Station’s night program covers mid-October to late March. December has the longest nights, but it’s also the coldest and darkest time, and the polar night limits daylight. Late February and March bring more daylight for outdoor activities while the nights are still dark enough for the aurora, which many families find easier.
Tips for northern lights with kids
- Nap in the afternoon. The best shows are often late, and Aurora Sky Station nights run until 01:00.
- Dress for real cold: thermal layers, a down jacket, insulated boots, a hat that covers the ears and mittens.
- Check the forecast together. Aurora and cloud forecasts make a fun nightly ritual for kids.
- Bring snacks and a thermos. Waiting is part of it.
- Plan daytime fun: sledding, snowshoeing or a dog-sled ride keep the days exciting even when the sky is cloudy at night.
- Check age rules for any tour or activity before booking. They vary by operator.
Photographing the aurora
- Phones work. Use night mode and rest the phone on something steady.
- A small tripod makes a big difference for longer exposures.
- Keep batteries warm in an inside pocket. Cold drains them fast.
- Turn off the flash and let your eyes adjust to the dark for a few minutes.
My pick
If seeing the northern lights is the one goal, I’d choose Abisko for at least three nights. If you want more variety, a shorter trip or the Icehotel, I’d start in Kiruna and add one or two nights in Abisko. Either way, pair it with a few days in the capital: Stockholm in winter with kids has the plan.
Questions about Abisko and Kiruna
Is Abisko or Kiruna better for the northern lights?
Abisko is usually better for clear skies because it lies in a rain shadow, and it has little light pollution. Kiruna is easier to reach and has more activities, and the two are about an hour apart by train.
When is the Aurora Sky Station open in 2026/27?
Its Northern Lights Night program runs from 19 October 2026 to 27 March 2027, from 20:30 until no later than 01:00. Only 40 places are available each night.
When does the Icehotel open in 2026?
ICEHOTEL 37 in Jukkasjärvi opens on Friday 11 December 2026, with an opening ceremony at 18:00.
How do I get from Stockholm to Abisko?
By SJ’s night train, about 17 hours, or by flying to Kiruna and taking the train to Abisko, which takes about an hour.
Can you see the northern lights during polar night?
Yes, the long nights are good for aurora watching if the sky is clear. In Kiruna, polar night runs from 11 December 2026 to 1 January 2027.
Read next
Hej då (bye for now),
Brian
Sources (checked 21 October 2026)
- Aurora Sky Station Northern Lights Night (dates, times, inclusions, capacity, booking): auroraskystation.se/en/winter/night-visit
- STF Abisko Turiststation: swedishtouristassociation.com
- Rain shadow: smhi.se (Regnskugga)
- ICEHOTEL 37 opening: kirunalapland.se/en/event/icehotel-37-opening and icehotel.com
- Polar night: kirunalapland.se
- Night train operator and Boden change: SVT Nyheter Norrbotten and NSD reporting; check sj.se for the timetable
- Kiruna to Abisko train: SJ timetable
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